nav_bar_links

   Main menu
    Start
    About Us
    Links
    Diary
    Reviews
    Fishy Tales

    Whats New
    News
    Weight Conv
    Forum
    Guestbook
    Diver Mats
    Videos
   Interviews

   Photo albums
    Ballasjön
    Härlanda
    Swedish Carp
    Carp Gallery
    Funnies
    Scenic
    More Albums
    Events
    Best of Rest

   The lakes
 
   Ballasjön
    Härlanda

    Carp Venues
    Swims Info
    Depthcharts

    Carp Fishing
    Species
    Rigs
    Tackle
    Knots
    Baits
    Prebaiting
    Tips & Tricks
    Watercraft
    Articles      

    Freshwater
    Predator

    Records
     Rassie's
    Pike Page

    Miscellaneous
    Mailing List
    Contact
    Glossary
    Dictionary
__
Excalibur Leads

Free Vote Caster from Bravenet.com

  Free Tell A Friend from Bravenet.com

  

 


 

ShinyStat - Web Statistics

 

 

 

How to make your own leads



Leads will never be described as works of art. You don't often see people examine a box of Leads with the same interest they would show over a collection of Rigs. Even if you coat your leads, as I do, no one comments on the super job or, if they do, the comment generally concerns your mental state. But considering the cost of Leads, the average Carper would shell out as much for them as for Rigs.
     

Making Your Own

Before we go into the process of making your own leads, let me warn you the cost of lead, if purchased new, would hardly justify the time involved in making leads. Fortunately lead is always available on the second hand market. Your local plumber will also, from time to time, have bits and pieces he will sell.

 
     
 

Tools and Materials


Apart from lead you need a lead mould or moulds, a metal ladle, a length of straight wire (or buy some ready made brass loops) and a couple of clamps, preferably spring clamps.

A convenient source of heat for melting the lead is your kitchen hot plates. If the kitchen is taboo a portable gas/Petrol stove will do nicely. (see pics)

 

While you can make your own moulds from various things including plaster of paris, small pieces of steel pipe welded to a flat steel bar and even sand, the commercially available moulds are safe, inexpensive and easy to use. Clamps,make the job even easier.

Before we start on the process of making leads, a couple of warnings won't hurt. The melting point of lead is around 330 degrees Celsius. A rough translation of that is bloody hot, so a rag or gloves should be kept close to the working area. Also you need to be warned that moulds look the same whether hot or cold.

Lead sometimes has impurities alloyed with it or coating it. These may be more toxic than the lead itself which is dangerous enough. However the real problem in your kitchen is nasty fumes as you melt the lead.

Saucepans and ladles at this temperature will not damage stove enamel or metal surfaces but all other types of table or bench tops should be avoided or covered with thick rags. If you put it on the family dining room table, be prepared to sleep on the couch for a week or two!!

Small drops of molten lead will rapidly cool on the floor or elsewhere if dropped but, for the sake of household harmony, should be picked up quickly providing it has cooled enough.

 

     

Procedure
Most moulds are made in two separate halves and must be clamped together. Some types are hinged but these also must be clamped. Good spring clamps are excellent for this job because of their single handed operation. The two halves of the mould will have some arrangement such as a dowel and socket to ensure they are correctly joined.

Fit and clamp them together then heat the complete mould. If the mould is left at room temperature the lead will solidify before completely filling the lead chambers. You will end up with "half" a lead and will have to start again!!

Melting can be carried out in a ladle or a saucepan (preferably a thick bottomed ladle). A strong steel ladle made especially for the job is the most convenient, but a small saucepan with a pouring lip works well as does a larger saucepan and cheap ladle. If using the latter method, preheat the ladle by allowing it to rest the molten lead for a few minutes.

After the first batch of leads are molded everything will be hot enough to continue without preheating and hot enough to burn fingers.

 

     

For your main lead pot, i.e., on the stove or cooker, use an old heavy bottomed 1 pint sauce pan with a left hand lip. That way it will be easier to poor into bigger lead moulds. This size will be big enough for what you need and won't take so long to heat up.

Use small amounts of lead to start with, and always leave some lead in the pot when you've finished (easier to melt (start) with next time). 

When you've melted the lead, scoop the "swarfe" "scum", off the top with a spoon to get to the fresh lead.  

For your smaller leads use a small ladle, which you can just dip into the main pot, a lot easier and safer, pre heat first.! 

Heat the moulds up first,  do it on the side of the pot or the stove. The first cast of your leads without the loops, will confirm the heat of your mould. 

Place your hot mould on a thick piece of wood to conserve heat,(not on the work top, the wife will throw a major fit and you and your leads will be homeless!)  when casting.   If your pot has a, i.e., plastic handle, etc, it may melt in time. You will have to replace it with a metal one (welded), or a thick wooden one.

Filling the mould should be done slowly and steadily. This is not the time to scratch your nose or anything else that you may feel needs scratching (as us men normally do). If you're the type that is often overtaken by the irresistible urge to scratch strange places, find an understanding friend.

The lead chambers, then the pouring funnels will fill and the lead will rapidly solidify. Your first home grown lead have been formed. At this stage, if someone has talked you into using a plaster mould, be very careful. Plaster of paris retains moisture which, when heated, expands and may split or even explode the mould.

Now extract the wire using pliers, (if the wire is long enough put a crank handle shape in one end so the wire may be easily turned to loosen it). The mould will be very hot so hold it with a glove or rag or, better still, clamp it in your vice. Lastly, release the clamps, open the mould and bump out your first batch of leads. The solidified lead that filled the pouring funnels can be snipped off with side cutters after the leads have cooled.

 

SAFETY

SAFETY GOGGLES (FOR EYE PROTECTION) AND HEAT RESISTANT GLOVES MUST BE WORN AT ALL TIMES.

Adult supervision is compulsory for junior lead makers.

Always make leads in a well ventilated area.

A steel vessel must be used to melt lead AND CHECKED for soundness BEFORE each use. A ladle with a riveted or welded, NOT SOLDERED, bowl must be used when transferring the molten lead from the melting vessel to the mould.

The mould must be pre-heated prior to casting to ensure it is free from moisture. Once the lead has melted DO NOT add further amounts of lead, since this can lead to an explosion if any moisture is present.

DO NOT MELT WET OR DAMP LEAD,  IT WILL EXPLODE.!

Do not handle moulds or leads made, without wearing heat resistant gloves.

Always wash hands thoroughly after handling lead.

 
   COMMON SENSE, ISN'T SO COMMON !!!  
 
Homemade Flat Pear Leads
 
Homemade Coated Leads
 
Homemade Coated Pear Leads
with Swivel & Shrink Tube
 
Homemade Pear Leads
Camo Coated
     

The End Result!!!
A 3.5oz (100g) Flat pear lead with a plastic camo coating

For a step by step guide of how to coat your own leads, click on the link below
 

By Chris Thornhill

 

 
© 2004 Site made by GuTe  |  Email: chris@screamingdelkims.se